Western Sicily Roadtrip: 14 Days a Little Off the Beaten Path

The plan… a two-week Sicily roadtrip with a focus on Western Sicily

We heard Sicily was a little different. Centuries of foreign occupation and its proximity to northern Africa shaped the island in ways, unlike the rest of Italy. We booked a last-minute trip to discover exactly what this meant for us. Two people, one tiny car, and only a general idea of where we were going.

With just a few weeks to spare, we focused our time in western Sicily over the more developed eastern side of Sicily. This meant fewer tourists and more untouched landscapes to explore, which sounded more than perfect to us.

Western Sicily is about discovery. Wander the markets of Palermo for unique street foods, before setting off in search of some of Italy’s most beautiful untouched beaches and pristine marine protected waters. Oh, and don’t forget about the Valley of the Temples—more than two kilometers of amazingly preserved Greek ruins perched on a hillside overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.

Sticking to western Sicily, you will miss out on hiking Mount Etna and some of the more picturesque towns of Taormina and Syracuse. They are just too far away for a two-week itinerary. But let those places be your excuse for a return trip…or maybe just stay a bit longer.

If you aren’t afraid to try new foods (it is ok to skip the boiled spleen sandwich…we did!), getting a little sweaty hiking rugged coastlines, or dodging a few jellyfish, western Sicily may just be what you are looking for. 

Based on our travels, we have put together our recommendations for how to spend an active two weeks in western Sicily. This is what we would give a friend in search of some advice. Depending on your schedule you can do this trip in as little as nine days, and we have included some suggestions on how to do that.

Some Travel Basics

It is best to start and end your trip in Palermo, the capital of Sicily. The Palermo International Airport is located about an hour outside the city center and offers affordable international and domestic flights. Another option is the overnight ferry from Naples. 

Renting a car is essential to truly experience western Sicily. The infrastructure is not well set up for tourism, making travel between towns more complicated than the rest of Italy. By relying on public transit you will waste hours backtracking and waiting for the bus. Plus some of our favorite stops will be completely inaccessible.

Want to learn more about driving in Sicily and renting a car? See our post here for more details on our learnings.

If you are unable to rent a vehicle, you can do a modified literary that consists of Palermo, Egadi Islands, and Cefalu. However, we think a better option would be to consider eastern Sicily, which is a bit more accessible by public transportation.

You might be wondering why not visit both western and eastern Sicily? We asked the same question before arriving, and it really comes down to the amount of time you will spend driving. Why travel all the way to Sicily just to experience it through the windshield of a car? If you have longer than two weeks, only then would we recommend considering an itinerary that covers both sides of the island. In this case, you could even start in Palermo and end your trip in Catania, as both have international airports.

When to Visit:

The summer months of May through September make for the perfect road trip weather. We generally prefer the shoulder season of May, June, and September. The water is warm, but the weather is slightly cooler, crowds are smaller, and prices are a bit more affordable. There is also less competition for accommodations, which is great for last-minute planners like us.

It is also important to remember that outside of summer, many restaurants and accommodations in places like the Egadi islands and Cefalu will be closed, significantly limiting your options.

Itinerary in Depth: Two Weeks in Western Sicily

Day One and Two – Palermo

Palermo has a history of foreign invasion and occupation that puts it at a cultural crossroads. The Greeks, Romans, Arabs, and Normans all staked their claim at one point in time. Nowhere is this more evident than in food and the architecture of Palermo. Spend your days exploring cathedrals and rooftops, wandering historic streets, and stuffing yourself with some of the most unique street foods in all of Italy. Don’t forget to take a break from the afternoon sun to enjoy an Aperol Spritz…or three!  Palermo can be a little chaotic and a bit rough around the edges, but that adds to its character.

To help plan your stay, check out our Palermo post on things to do!

Getting There:

Your first step is to arrive in Palermo. We took the overnight ferry from Naples, which allowed us to get in early, drop off our luggage, and still have a full day to explore the city. The port is centrally located and we were able to walk to our accommodation. 

If you are planning on flying, you will want to arrive the night before to ensure at least two full days in Palermo. The airport is about an hour from the historic center of Palermo, so to get into the city we recommend the airport shuttle bus, Prestia e Comande. It runs every 30 minutes and you can book your tickets online to guarantee your seat.

Don’t pick up your rental car just yet. You won’t need it for Palermo. It makes more sense to explore on foot.

Short on time?

We have you picking up your car on the morning of day three, to drive to Scopello. Another option is to head over to Scopello on the evening of day two.

Day Three, Four, and Five – Scopello

Scopello is a perfectly quaint hamlet just west of Palermo that is built into the steep hills overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. Spend at least one full day hiking Zingaro Nature Reserve, a seven-kilometer out-and-back trail where you can discover and swim at six unique beaches. We managed to hike the 14-kilometer round trip in one day, however you could easily spend several days in the park. Scopello also offers a handful of other coves and beaches accessible within walking distance from the historic center (just be prepared for some steep climbs). In the evenings, head to the town square to enjoy a glass of wine and authentic Sicilian dishes.

To help plan your stay, check out our Scopello post for more details.

Getting There:

On the morning of day three, make your way to the Palermo Airport to pick up your rental vehicle. Since you will most likely be flying how from Palermo, picking your car up from the airport makes the most sense. It will also allow you to avoid downtown Palermo traffic. 

For more information on renting and driving in Italy, see our Driving in Sicily post.

Short on time?

You could spend just two days in Scopello. Wake up early in Palermo (or leave the night before), and this will give you one day to explore the main village, walk down to the local beaches, and spend the evening in the town square. Spend day two in Zingaro Nature Reserve.

Day Six, Seven, Eight, and Nine – The Egadi Islands of Favignana and Levanzo

Sicily’s Egadi islands are part of the largest marine reserve in the Mediterranean and are home to crystal clear waters, mouth-watering seafood, and unrelenting sunshine. Stay on Favignana and spend days exploring the winding streets of this sparsely populated island by bicycle in the hunt for the perfect cove. Cars are a rarity on the island, so there isn’t much competition for the road. Then plan a day trip to the island of Levanzo…but pack a lunch because there is only a single market and a few restaurants that always seem to be closed whenever we got hungry. 

To plan your stay, check out our Favignana and Levanzo post!

Getting There:

On the morning of day six, make the hour or two drive (depending on traffic) from Scopello to the port city of Trapani. You can’t bring your car to the Egadi Islands, so leave it parked in Trapani. We used Parking Le Saline, and highly recommend it. They will give you a lift to the port, where you can hop on a 30-minute passenger ferry to Favignana. Book your tickets directly through Liberty Lines to guarantee your seat. This is especially important in July and August. On Favignana, most hotels and guesthouses are in the main town directly next to the port, so you can walk to your accommodations. 

Once in Favignana, you have a few options for transportation. Bicycle, e-bike, and scooter. E-bikes are probably your best bet. It will help you up the hills but is still relaxing enough of a ride to enjoy the scenery.

When you are ready for that day trip to Levanzo, head back down to the port to catch a 10-minute ferry. Just make sure to book your return ticket and watch the clock. You don’t want to get stuck there for the night.

Day Ten and Eleven – Agrigento 

Like every other traveler in Agrigento, we were there for one reason…to witness the Valley of the Temples. At nearly two kilometers long and perched on a hillside overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, the Valley of the Temples is one of the best-preserved examples of Greek architecture in the world. Arrive in Agrigento by midday to ensure you can walk the grounds before witnessing one of the most beautiful sunsets in Sicily. At dark, the ruins are illuminated for a unique perspective.

The following day, head down to the seaside to see the white stair-stepped cliffs of Scala dei Turchi. Please note that as of  2024, you are no longer allowed to walk the cliffside due to erosion. Another option is to spend a day at Torre Salsa, for great snorkeling and sunbathing. Typically we are reluctant to refer to the beaches in Sicily as actual ‘beaches”. Often they are patches of dirt next to the water. But Torre Salsa is about as close to a vast California or Hawaiian beach you will find in Sicily.

Getting There:

On the morning of day 10, pack up your things and head back to Trapani from Favignana to pick up your car. Then navigate south to Agrigento. It is about a two-and-a-half-hour drive.

To Visit the Valley of the Temples, depending on where you are staying it is possible to walk from your accommodations. However, there is plenty of parking so we recommend just driving your car. 

A car is required to visit both Scala dei Turchi and Torre Salsa. 

Short on time?

Skip the extra beach day and just spend one night in Agrigento to see the Valley of the Temples.

Day Twelve and Thirteen – Cefalù

Cefalú is the one place that kept on coming up in our research as a must-visit while in Sicily. There is no denying the beauty of Cefalu, a small seaside town sandwiched between a sandy coastline and a mountain backdrop. Spend the day at the beach,  hike atop La Rocca in the afternoon to explore castle ruins, and at night wander the cobblestone streets in search of a few scoops of gelato.

Cefalu is not without its drawbacks. With beauty comes a flood of tourists, After the quaintness of Scopello or the Egadi Islands, the busyness was a bit to adjust back into. However, Cefalu makes for a perfect last stop on your road trip, as it is only an hour or two from Palermo Airport. Timing your travels from Agrigento to the airport would be far too unpredictable given the distance. 

To help plan your stay, check out our Cefalu post.

Getting There:

Get ready for a bit of drive. Head north for bout two to three hours and you will arrive in Cefalù. Cefalù is very walkable, so just find a parking spot near your accommodation and rely on your legs for your time there.

Short on time?

Spend one night in Cefalu, and catch an evening flight from Palermo International Airport. We only ended up spending one night since our return flight was so late, giving us nearly a full second day.

Day Fourteen – Your Return to Palermo

If you are flying out of Palermo, this is your day to head back to the airport. If you have a later flight you can spend some time at the beach before making the drive. Give yourself about two hours. Also, consider that you may need an extra hour at the airport if you run into any issues with damage to the vehicle and need to document it for insurance. But this won’t be an issue if you have paid for zero deductible CDW coverage.

But wait, is this your first time in Italy?

If so, why not add a few days onto your trip in the more typical Italian destinations? We started our trip with two days in Naples, before taking the overnight ferry to Palermo. We then ended our trip with three days in Rome. Adding these destinations can give you a better perspective on what makes Sicily such a unique place in Italy.

And that is two weeks well spent in one of the most beautiful places we have visited in Europe. Now that you are sitting back at the airport it is time to plan your next trip. Explore our other guides for some inspiration.