From Beaches to Bikes, 96 Hours on the Island of Favignana and Levanzo, Sicily’s Hidden Gem

We visited the island of Favignana as part of our two-week road trip around western Sicily, ready to trade in the chaotic Sicilian traffic for slow days snorkeling and exploring the island by bicycle. 

We had never heard of Favignana before planning our trip to Sicily. Turns out this was for good reason. The island is mainly known to Italians and doesn’t get a whole lot of travelers from the rest of Europe, let alone the other side of the world. The largest and most populous of the Aegadian (Egadi) Islands, Favignana gained local notoriety for the days when fishermen used to hunt tuna in the shallows off the island’s rugged coastline. Today the island of Favignana is part of the largest protected marine reserve in the Mediterranean and a popular summer destination…but the legends of its past can be seen throughout the island. This is our travel guide on how to spend 4 days on the island of Favignana

You can’t really describe Favignana as a beach destination in the traditional sense. The island is dry, and the coastline is more rocky than anything else. Growing up with the endless sand of California and Hawaii, this took some adjustment. In fact, at first, we wondered if the four days we planned to explore Favignana and its neighboring island Levanzo would be too much. However we quickly fell in love with the pace of life and warm crystal blue waters, and by the end of our stay weren’t ready to leave.

Recommended Duration: 3 to 4 days
When to Visit: May to September (though sticking to the shoulder months of May, June, and September will be slightly less crowded and a touch cooler)
Getting Around: Bicycle
Currency: Euro
Airport: N/A – Ferry from Trapani

How to Get to Favignana

Favignana is located just off the western coast of Sicily and is accessible by passenger ferry from the Port of Trapani. Ferries from Trapani also connect to the other Aegadian islands of Levanzo and Marettimo, perfect for an easy day or overnight trip.

  • Ferries: There are two primary ferry companies that access the Egadi islands from Trapani, Liberty Lines and Siremare. We recommend Liberty Lines, as they offer the fastest transit times (approximately 30 min between Trapani and Favignana) and most sailings throughout the day. There is also a car ferry that is significantly more expensive, however, we would advise against bringing a vehicle. 
  • Tickets: In the summer months it is best to book a few days ahead and secure your return ticket at the same time to ensure availability. Tickets generally cost between 10 and 20 Euros per person each way. Book directly with Liberty Lines to avoid any additional surcharges by using a third-party site.  If you arrive at the port early you can always pay a one Euro change fee and difference in fare to move your ticket time if seats are available.  
  • Parking: If you have a vehicle and are visiting Favignana as part of a road trip, there are several long term parking lots. We recommend Parking Le Saline. It cost us about 8 Euros per day and they offered a free shuttle service to and from the port, which drops you off directly in front of the ticketing office.

When to Visit

Favignana and the surrounding Aegadian islands are best visited during the warmer summer months. By far July and August are the most popular, but we think May, June, and September are better due to smaller crowds, cooler temperatures (though still very hot), and cheaper accommodations.

Where to Stay

Most accommodations are within a 10 or so minute walk of where the ferry arrives in port and this is where we recommend focusing your search. Here you will be within walking distance of restaurants, shops, bike rentals, and most importantly…evening gelato stops. For July and August, you should book a few months out, especially if you have a tight budget or are a bit more particular about the type of places you stay in. 

If you need somewhere to start, we stayed at the Gili Archi Garden Rooms for around 120 Euros per night and highly recommend it.

How Long to Visit

We stayed on Favignana for four nights and it was just about right.  This allowed for two and a half days of exploring the island and a full-day trip to Levanzo. If you are not much of an ocean person, two or three nights would be fine. You can even visit Favignana on a day trip from Trapani, but that won’t leave you much time to settle into the slow laid-back pace of island life.

Getting Around Favignana

Bicycles rule the roads in Favignana, and getting lost as we navigated our way around the island were some of our best memories. Bicycles come in two types. Beach cruisers and e-bikes. After trying both, we definitely say splurge for the e-bike. Especially if you plan on exploring the wilder and more hilly western side of the island. But watch out for pedestrian-only zones. If you see one, just hop off and walk your bike through those areas. 

What to do in Favignana
  • Where to Rent: There are plenty of shops within a 5 min walk of the ferry. Even if you are staying for longer than a day trip we recommend booking your first rental for 24 hours to test out a bike before committing to a longer period. We didn’t do this and got stuck with an e-bike for the first two days that never really worked. We later switched to Deborah Noleggio Favignana Noleggio and were very happy.
  • Cost: 5 euro per day for a beach cruiser and 15 euro per day for an e-bike. 
  • What about a Scooter: You can also rent a 125 cc scooter for about 35 euro per day plus the price of gas. If there are two of you it really is no different than the price of two e-bikes, and might be the way to go if you are only here for a day and want to maximize your time on the island. However there was something to be said for the slow pace of peddling around the island, and this was our preferred way to experience Favignana. We got mixed opinions on whether or not you really need an international driver’s license with a motorcycle endorsement to rent a scooter if you are from outside of the EU. So we brought ours just in case.

How to Spend Your Time Here

A big part of why you come to Sicily is the food, but you come to Favignana for the ocean. By far the best way to spend your time on the island is by exploring the many coves and swimming in the beautiful warm and crystal clear water. We included some of our favorite beaches below. On windy days look at a map and pick protected coves. 

Tip: Favignana’s beaches are rocky so if you have soft feet made softer through years of working in an office, pack some waterproof sandals or water shoes. 

Also, make sure to bring a snorkel mask. We always had ours with us and used them every day. While there may not be a whole lot of fish to see and I never did find my octopus, you still don’t want to miss out on diving down. It will also help you watch out for some jellyfish… they are everywhere!

Favingana Beaches

We spent 3 days biking around the island of Favignana, looking for beaches this island has to offer. These are the top beaches we love and recommend you visit.

Bue Marino

Bue Marino was by far the most unique spot we found on Favignana and definitely our favorite. Set against the backdrop of an old quarry, you enter the water by stepping off rocks into the deep. So being able to swim is a must since there is no easing your way in. If you prefer, you can find shade in the caves carved into the surrounding cliffs. This location is definitely no secret, so plan to get here early if you want to enjoy it with fewer people. 

Cala Rossa

Probably the most popular beach on Favignana, Cala Rosa encompasses a jagged rocky coastline bordering beautiful shallow turquoise water. Once you are in, there is endless soft sand to wade around on. You have to descend a small hillside and climb over some rocks to access the water along the majority of the cove, so don’t forget some waterproof sandals. Out of the water, this is not the most comfortable place to sit and relax. We found a rock to lay on but let’s just say we weren’t at risk of falling asleep.

Spiaggia Cala del Passo

On a particularly windy day, we sought out a protected cove to escape the waves, finding Spiaggia Cala del Passo. This is one of the first beaches you will find as you travel around the west side of the island, and requires a bit of effort to descend the cliffside towards the water. Thankfully we are not scared of heights…but you have been warned.  While small, it was less busy than the other swimming spots we visited and was a great place to relax for a few hours. 

Cala Preveto

We found this beach with a little luck…the entrance is a short walk from Spiaggia Cala del Passo. You have to hop over a fence and cross some private farmland, so we just followed some locals who happened to be going at the same time. If you want somewhere quiet to relax and swim in the waves but still only 30 min by bike from town this is a great option. 

Day Trip to Levanzo

If you are on Favignana for more than a few days, take a day trip to Levanzo. It only takes 15 minutes and offers a very different experience. The population on Levanzo is a tenth of Favignana and has far fewer visitors. Because of this, there are only a handful of restaurants and a gelato shop. From the port, you can walk to great swimming spots less than 30 minutes away, including Spiaggia di Cala Minnola. For history buffs, you can also book a tour and arrange pickup at the port to visit Grotta del Genovese and see Neolithic cave paintings dating 12-13 thousand years ago. 

Favignana Restaurants

There are many interesting and unique options on Favignana. Here are a few affordable places we enjoyed.

Our Final Thoughts

Overall Favignana and Levanzo were a great way to divide up our road trip around western Sicily. We really fell in love with the warm water and slowed-down lifestyle. The islands are best suited for more active individuals who love the ocean but don’t care too much about lazing away on the beach. Some access to the water would be difficult if you are not comfortable walking up and down steep hills and climbing over rocks or if you have small children. Oh and pack snacks and lots of water when exploring because many places outside of the main town don’t have concessions or facilities. 

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