5 Things to do in Cefalu: 24 Hours of Beaches, Hiking and Wandering

When I told a friend we were going to Sicily, her first words were, “You have to go to Cefalu.” Despite growing up in Italy, she had never been, but had heard rumors of this small seaside town nestled along the Tyrrhenian Coast.  

We were hesitant…Cefalu has a bit of a reputation as a tourist mecca popular among day trippers who hop the train from nearby Palermo. But ultimately, we made it a last-minute addition to our road trip around western Sicily. 

The historic center of Cefalu is a postcard-perfect labyrinth of stone streets sandwiched between a soft sandy beach and La Rocca, a small mountain topped with castle ruins from the days of Arab-Norman rule. There is a little of something for everyone in Cefalu…swimming and relaxing in the sun, hiking, or just wandering from one meal or cone of gelato to the next.

But Cefalu isn’t without its drawbacks. In a lot of ways, Cefalu reminded us of Oia on the island of Santorini, Greece. Beautiful sun and salt battered architecture, deep rooted history, and stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea. But with that comes streets flooded with tourists and shops hawking many of the same souvenirs you find elsewhere in Sicily. You can still find moments of authenticity in Cefalu, but you just have to look a little harder. Ultimately, we are glad we stopped over in Cefalu as part of our roadtrip.  But we are not exactly in a hurry to go back. If you have limited time in Sicily, we offer a few alternative options at the end of this post that we think you will enjoy more.

When to Go: Cefalu is a beach town, so summer is the time to visit. We prefer Sicily’s shoulder months of May, June, and September. The heat is less intense, though still plenty hot, prices are cheaper and there are fewer people. Even if you aren’t prepared to dawn that swimsuit on the beach, we still recommend summer since many things close in the winter. 

How Long to Stay: Cefalu is probably best as a one-night stay. That will give you enough time to enjoy the beach, wander the streets, and hike La Rocca at sunset (or at least avoid the hottest hours of the day). If you don’t have a night to spare, many people also visit Cefalu as part of a day trip from Palermo.

We arrived in Cefalu from Agrigento before flying out of Palermo Airport the following day. That was perfect since Cefalu is less than a two-hour drive from the airport, and it allowed us to avoid spending another night in Palermo (where we started our road trip).

How to get there: You have two main options from Palermo… car or train. In both cases, it takes about one hour (two hours if driving from the airport). If you already have a car, just go ahead and drive. But if you don’t, hop on the train. You can get tickets for less than €10, and it runs around twenty times per day. Trains depart Palermo Centrale Station and arrive near the historic center in Cefalu.

TIP: There is plenty of paid parking at the main Cefalu train station, and it is cheaper than many of the private lots nearby.

Getting Around: Walking is the way to go. If you are spending the night, this is why we recommend staying near the historic center to avoid having to drive into town. Traffic can be heavy and there are multiple pedestrian-only zones (aka ZTEs), so it is just easier to park your car for the duration of your stay.

Beaches

This is why you go to Cefalu, right?

We arrived at Cefalu ready to take a dip in the sea. Sandy beaches are a rarity in Sicily, which is a large part of why people flock to Cefalu…ourselves no exception. But as we arrived a storm was setting in. We were not going to let that get in our way…or so we thought.

On the beach, I kept hearing a faint whistle. I didn’t think anything about it and decided to go for a swim. The waves were two or three feet high, nothing compared to growing up swimming in the Pacific Ocean. I made it into about knee-high water before seeing a lifeguard flagging me down. Turns out Cefalu is one of the few beaches in Sicily that has a lifeguard, and those whistles were telling people to stay out of the water. It was certainly a disappointing way to start off our time in Cefalu as we were never able to go in, but odds are you won’t have the same luck. 

Spiaggia Di Cefalu (Cefalu Beach)

This long stretch of sand backed by stone seawall walls spans much of the historic center of Cefalu. Find your spot early, as it fill up quickly. But this is an Italian beach after all, so be prepared to get up close and personal with your neighbor regardless. You can rent an umbrella or lounge chair for a rather hefty price tag (€30+), but we were fine just lazing on the beach towels we brought. There are the occasional hawkers selling blankets and other beach things…Just be sure to be polite and they will be on their way. 

Molo Di Cefalu (Cefalu Pier)

Walking the main beach or cutting through the alleyways of Cefalu, you will wind up at a concrete pier jetting out into the sea. Great for jumping in on calmer days or watching the waves crash on windy days, this was by far our favorite spot to enjoy the beauty of Cefalu. 

La Rocca

Besides beaches, hiking La Rocca at sunset was the main reason we came to Cefalu. La Rocca is a small mountain that towers over the historic center of Cefalu and offers amazing views of the town below. Atop are the ancient ruins of a Middle Ages castle that you can wander and explore. Well worth the effort if you are up for a hike

The hike is a moderate out and back and takes about two hours. As you make your way up, the trail gets progressively more rocky and steep. The trail starts near Chiesa dell’Itria (Atria Church). Cost is €5 per person. La Rocca officially closes at 7 pm, however, the last entrance is at 4 or 5 pm depending on the time of year. We made this mistake and were turned away on our first attempt. 

Tip: The trail requires hiking sandals with heel straps or running/hiking shoes. Trail attendees at the front gate will check and turn you away if you are in flip-flops. During periods of heavy rain, the trail will temporarily close.

Wandering Around

One of our favorite things we did in Cefalu was wandering the stoned streets of the historic center. The streets are gridded and stretch along the coast, so it is pretty hard to get lost (so put that phone away and enjoy). Some of our favorite stops include:

• Vicolo Caracciolo: A picturesque staircase lined with flowers in ceramic colorfully painted pots. 
• Duomo Di Cefalu:  This Arab-Norman era UNESCO cathedral serves as the centerpiece of Cefalu. It is hard to miss with its towering stone archways. You can also go inside to explore.
• Piazza Duomo: At the base of Duomo Di Cefalu is a large central square. At night, you can sit and listen to live music while enjoying some dessert from nearby shops.

Food

There are no shortages of restaurants and you can choose your own adventure when it comes to budget. We try to find more affordable options because it leaves us with more leftover to travel throughout the year. A good rule of thumb is that any restaurant with an ocean view costs more than it should, and often the best places we have eaten at are tucked away in back alleyways. Some of our favorites: 

• Pasta Da Qui: This takeaway-only restaurant offers a bunch of different past dishes for under €10 each. We picked up a few different options and brought them down to the beach to enjoy the sunset. Can’t get closer to ocean-view dining than having your feet in the sand. This place can get busy so expect to wait for 30 min or longer. 
• History Pinsa Cefalu: This was some of the best pizza we had in Sicily. Super light and crispy, and plenty of options for under €10. This place also tends to get busy the later you go in the evening. 
• Gelato: One of our favorite things in Sicily was sampling all the Gelato. We don’t necessarily recommend a specific Gelateria in Cefalu. However, look for gelato that is not overly colorful or fluffy, as this is usually an indication of artificial colors, flavors, and stabilizers. 

Where to Stay

Make your life easy and stay within walking distance of Cefalu’s historic center. That way you can rule out the need for driving or taking a taxi into town. This is especially nice if you like to walk the beach early in the morning or late at night.

We stayed at Yeasy Smart Rooms Cefalu. It was clean and centrally located near the train station (where we parked our car). The price was approximately €130 per night in September. There are many equally suitable options in the area. 

Alternative Destinations

There is no disagreement about the beauty of Cefalu, and if you are based in Palermo it makes for an nice day or overnight trip where you can enjoy the beach, hike, and explore the historic center. If you are visiting western Sicily as part of a road trip, Cefalu also makes for an easy last-night stop, as it is conveniently located within a few hours drive from the Palermo Airport. 

That said, Cefalu was a bit too busy and touristy for our liking. If you have a car and are looking for a day trip from Palermo, we would instead recommend the small hamlet of Scopello. There you can hike Zingaro Nature Reserve and visit one (or all) of the many beaches along the route. At the end of the day, reward your effort by enjoying an amazing farm-to-table meal at Solea Azienda Agricola. We still talk about this restaurant even after our trip!

If you have at least one night to spare, we would also recommend heading over to the Egadi Islands of Favignana and Levanzo. There you will find pristine waters, long windy roads to explore by bike and amazing seafood. See our other guides to learn more.