Scopello, Sicily: A Simple Guide to This Tranquil Village and Exploring Zingaro Nature Reserve 

Scopello is a beautifully quaint seaside village just west of Palermo and is what you think of when you imagine a small town in Sicily. The village is built into the craggy arid hills that surround the turquoise sea below, and offers amazing swimming and hiking. We came to explore Zingaro Nature Reserve, but Scopello is worth a visit even if you don’t plan on going here. 

Scopello is tiny, but looking at it on a map can be misleading. The hills are steep! So that quick walk down to the beach won’t be so quick on your way back up. Those sore calves you earned on the climb will be your reminder for days after you leave just how much you want to return.

How to Get to Scopello and Zingaro Nature Reserve

Your best option is to drive. We visited Scopello as part of our western Sicily road trip, and picked up our car at Palermo Airport to avoid having to navigate through the chaos that is Palermo city traffic. We used Avis and had no issues, but don’t necessarily recommend this company as their reviews online seem mixed.

We heard that you can take a bus from Palermo to Scopello, with a stop in Castellammare del Golfo. However, we would not recommend this option, because looking at the times it seems like you would be wasting most of your day waiting around for a connection. This certainly would not be a viable option for day trips. And if you wanted to visit Zingaro Nature Reserve you would also have to pay for a taxi to and from the park. So at this point, you might as well rent a car. 

When to Visit Scopello

Summer months for sure. Much of the charm of Scopello is enjoying the beautiful sea. But like our other guides for Sicily, we recommend the slightly cooler shoulder season of May, June, and September. Those climbs back up from the beach will be that much more bearable, and so will your hike through Zingaro Nature Reserve.

• How Long: We recommend two nights. That will give you a day or two to explore the main town and a full day in Zingaro Nature Reserve. You can add a few more days if you want to use Scopello as a base for day trips to Erice or elsewhere. 
• Exploring Scopello: On the day you arrive in Scopello, we recommend just taking it slow and exploring your way around town (it won’t take long), relaxing and enjoying a meal in the main square, and visiting beaches within walking distance.

Scopello Beaches

Cala Baialuce

This was our go-to beach while in Scopello, and offered great swimming and a small area for relaxing in the sun. It is about a 15 min walk downhill from the main town (and 35 min walk on the way up). The path is steep and you have to cut through a private community via a small pedestrian gate. Don’t worry, it is allowed. Not many people seemed to go to this beach, and it felt like a spot more popular with locals than tourists. 

Cala Mosca

This is certainly a different kind of beach…well it is not so much a beach as a stair step down to a platform on the water. We never did figure out how to access this from shore without paying, so I just swam over from Cala Baialuce while Michelle was reading her book on her Kindle. It took about 20 minutes to swim over to Cala Mosca.

Faraglioni di Scopello

This is some of the best swimming we experienced in all of western Sicily. The water is deep and uncrowded and is surrounded by beautiful rock formations. The easiest way to access this is through the historic area of Scopello Tonnara. You may not recognize the name, but you will immediately recognize it from the pictures if you have done any research on Scopello. Its popularity has taken off because it is rather expensive to access. So like Cala Mosca, I just swam over here from Cala Baialuce to enjoy the surrounding waters. But because I didn’t pay, I could not go ashore.  It was about a 60-minute round-trip swim plus more time for exploring, so not for the inexperienced. You can take a break at Cala Mosca if you need it. 

Exploring Zingaro Nature Reserve (Riserva dello Zingaro)

Not going to Zingaro Nature Reserve would be to miss a big part of what makes Scopello so special. It is Sicily’s first nature reserve and offers the most scenic hiking and some of the best beaches we experienced while in Sicily. The reserve’s southern entrance is less than a 10-minute drive from the Scopello town center (the reserve can also be accessed from San Vito Lo Capo to the north). The main trail is a seven km out and back (14 km round trip) dotted with six unique beaches, though we only visited five due to closures at the time. The beaches are quite rocky, this is Sicily after all, but the water when we were there was calm and crystal clear. There is also the option to do a circle route utilizing trails that extend higher up into the cliffside but is best suited for more experienced hikers. 

Quick Tips: 

• Flip flops are not allowed in the reserve so pack hiking sandals with a heel strap, or closed-toed shoes. Umbrellas are also not allowed so pack a good hat, sunscreen, and maybe a swimming shirt for those who are a bit pasty and haven’t seen the sun for a few months. Michelle packed her Tevas Zymic Sandals for this part of the trip. It had the grip for hiking but was also suitable as water shoes. Reid packed his Luna Mono sandals which served as his everyday sandals for walking and swimming.
• Arrive at the southern entrance by 7:30 am to ensure free parking, otherwise, you will have to pay for a private overflow lot in addition to the park entrance fee.
• Pack lots of water and snacks. We spent nearly 12 hours here and there were no places to purchase food or drink. Also, bring your mask and snorkel to enjoy exploring the water…and to help spot the jellyfish. They will be sure to let you know if you don’t see them with a not-so-subtle burning reminder. 

Zingaro Nature Reserve Beaches

Cala Capreria

This beach offers amazing crystal-clear seas set against a cliff backdrop. This is a great beach for lounging and wading in the water. Most people agree, which is why it gets very busy in the afternoon. Plan to visit this one first thing if you want a little more solitude. 

Cala Disa

This is a very pebbly beach, but great for relaxing and swimming. We made the mistake of going to this beach in the late afternoon so it was too shady to spend much time. So we recommend making this one of your first stops along the trail.

Cala Berretta

This small rock and dirt beach is not the best for relaxing. But what it lacks in space and comfort, it makes up for in snorkeling. Follow the channel out and to the left along the shore for the best experience. 

Cala Marinella

Definitely the most unique of the beaches in the park. Most people just relax on the rock ledge overlooking the water. There is a small pebble beach built into the cliffside. However to get there you have to jump into the water, so maybe look to see if you are nimble enough to climb up the rocks to get out before going in. It would be a long swim to the next beach. 

Cala dell’Uzzo

We spent the most time at this beach. It offers a good blend of room to sit and relax with swimming/snorkeling. The best snorkeling is to the right and along the coastline. It is a bit of a hike off the main trail down to this beach but it is worth it. When we were there this beach had tons of jellyfish, but once we swam a few minutes to the right there were significantly fewer. 

Scopello Restaurants

After a long day in the sweltering sun, there are a few places we highly recommend to eat.

• Solea Azienda Agricola: This was by far our most enjoyable meal in Sicily. A local farm-to-table restaurant, the options reminded me a lot of what my Italian grandmother would make for Sunday suppers. The food is simple, fresh, and affordable, and includes less common ingredients like wild boar. We 100% recommend going here. Just wait for the sun to go down to really enjoy the outdoor atmosphere. Their wine is from the grapes they’ve grown and Michelle really enjoyed it (as evidenced by the photos). Kitties are roaming around the restaurant as well.
• Made ‘n Sicilia – Baglio Scopello: This is where we recommend going if you are looking for a classic Sicilian restaurant in the main town square of Scopello.  It is located in a walled area with two other restaurants that are also delicious and offer the same atmosphere and live music. So you can’t go wrong with any of them. However, Made’n Sicilia had some of the best pesto pasta we tried in Sicily. 
• Market Scopello (DIY Option): One of our favored things to do in Sicily for a laid-back snack or meal was to go to the local market and pick up an assortment of meats and cheeses to eat with crackers or fresh bread. This was also sometimes our only option, as restaurants in Italy don’t open until much later than what we are used to back home. We really enjoyed the quality of Market Scopello and the guys at the deli were so helpful. Michelle was missing her spicy food and was happy to find Tobasco at Market Scopello. She had to take a photo to celebrate her joy.

Where to Stay in Scopello

We enjoyed being within walking distance of the main town square of Scopello and stayed at the following listing, Casolare La Torre. But there are many suitable options for all budgets.

• Ap. Tonnara, Casa Nino Scopello: Another budget place for 4 people in Scopello that’s close to the main town square. It has a kitchen for some home-cooked meals and snacks if you get tired of eating out.
• Villa Scopello: Wonderful option if you’re traveling with 6 guests. While this is not as close to the main square, it’s close enough! It’s closer to the beach than the other option!
• Cottage in Castellammare del Golfo: While this listing isn’t in Scopello, it’s in the next town over. Another great option if you have a car to drive to Scopello/Zingaro Nature Reserve.

Overall, we loved our time in Scopello. It was the first break we had after the chaos of Palermo on our road trip around western Sicily. If you are not much for hiking or swimming, we think Scopello is still worth your time as a day trip. But you could easily spend a few days here if you are more active. Pack lots of water and be prepared to put your head down and climb those hills. You won’t regret it.